New to acid stain
Hello all im new to this all, im wondering if its a good idea to sand the concrete with a edco sander before i attempt to stain my floor, i pulled up all the carpet, rented a buffer with a black pad got all the paint up but the glue is still on the concrete as well as a bunch of shapie marker all over the floor from the framer. which i have used rubbing alcohol, wd-40, magic marker degeaser nothing seems to bring it up. so i was thinking to use a edco sander,which ive seen used before, and you can see all the lil stones in the concrete, but i also did read on here that if u sand the acid wont work? im kinda lost please help. also is there a post on here that gives you the step by step process on staining the floor? like what to do, so that way i dont doa step before another which i did see a lot of on here. thanks in advance
I have ground many floors and acid stained them with good results. The stain does not take as well due to the grinding, especially if you expose aggregate, but it's there and can be highlighted by a solvent based sealer or epoxy that wets out and darkens the surface bringing out color richness. I use equipment more aggressive than the edco equipment that you find at the rental stores. If you rent an Edco with stones (bricks), you may remove the glue on the surface, but not in the pores. It might look ok after prep, but when you hit it with the sealer,,, glue streaks appear. Unless you are prepared for that type of "character and personality", follow Lindy's advice and top it with a micro topping prior to staining. If you are willing to risk it, grind deep by getting the diamaserts rather than bricks, select a darker color stain, apply a solvent based sealer or epoxy and let what happens happen. There is something to be said about a floor with personality. (In my opinion)
First ... in cases where you have glue residues that randomly appear and/or had leached down into the top mils of the concrete, reactive acid stains will not provide uniform/desired results. Then you have the various sharpie marks that can be challenging to remove without sanding, which if you are not carefull can mark/scar (especially when mechanically sanding/grinding) the surface as well that will deter acid stain reaction. Any successful outcome is only as good at the condition, profile, and substrate/concrete uniformity (as far as no stains from foreign matter, ghost images of removed tile, filled nail/tack strip holes, crack repairs that have been made, etc.)
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Your best option would be to sand/grind the floor to obtain profile, then apply a polymer modified self-leveling microtopping ...these are thin mil build and will provide you with a virgin/new uniform surface to apply whatever type of stain and sealer you choice to apply. Some of the leading self-leveling polymer modiified micro-topping are...
Duraamen... www.duraamen.com (has several different formulations; on menu click on self-leveling concrete toppings)
Tue Self Leveling www.rapidset.com (distributors located nationwide)
Ardex www.ardex.com (product being self-leveling concrete STD)
Mapei www.mapai.com (Ultra-Top self-leveling concrete)
(Of course there are other self-leveling, polymer modified, concrete manufacturers, the above are just a few. Most have two options, either "gray" or "white," the gray cost less per bag and suffices, with color charts for stains and dyes being based on gray concrete to begin with.)
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Due to the various types of stains and concrete dyes, providing you with "how-to's" on application need to be those of the manufacturer (google "concrete stains," bring up the manufacturers of them, decide on the type you want to use, read and heed all the manufacturers application guidelines, then seal with the appropriate type of sealer that will meet your end use needs and elements it will be routinely subjected to. Once you decide on the type of stain you want to use, we can answer your questions/concerns and provide you with detailed insights.