Kemiko's Rembrandt Polymer Stains?

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I've been considering having a small room (about 150 sq ft) acid stained with Kemiko's Stone Tone acid stain, but the more I read the less I think this is right for me. There is a lot of garbage on the floor including a carpet pad adhesive residue that I really don't want to show through the stain. I've also got those little craters left from the tack strips. I'd love to do an overlay, but can't for financial reasons.

I was wondering if anyone had used Kemiko's Rembrandt Polymer Stains? How did it turn out? Is the floor color more even? Does it cover adhesive residue? What is the floor preparation process like? Does it need to be sealed and what is the maintenance like? Is it considered an "acid" stain? Could a diy'er handle it?

The only other alternative I can come up with for this room is to paint it using Behr's Porch Paint. Has anyone done this and if you have, what is the floor prep like for this? I figure with the porch paint I can always do some sort of faux finish as well - maybe sponge paint a top coat.

Needless to say I'm looking for a solution that isn't overly complicated, something that I can handle with my limited set of skills, and financially feasible (read - inexpensive; money is in short supply, but time isn't).

I'd appreciate any help I can get...
D. Hewett

Which ever system you use you

Which ever system you use you still need to get the glue or paint off the concrete. The advantage of the acrylic stains is they are less hazardous and you dont need to rinse off residue.

Lindy A.'s picture
Lindy A.
Regardless of the route you

Regardless of the route you take you must remove all the foreign matter from the floor prior to application of decorative system or coating you are considering. It is imperative that you have a concrete surface that will provide maximum adhesion properties (foreign matter on/in the surface will deter adhesion and of course longevity).

Suggest you purchase either Sunnyside (True Value or Do-It-Best hardware stores) or KS3 (Home Depot). Follow all directions for use and heed "safety precautions." Make sure after removal of the glue and other foreign matter to scrub the surface with a biodegradable cleaner and rinse extra thoroughly.

Fill nail/tack strip holes with a modified cementitious repair material, available from the concrete section at mega/warehouse material store. Do not get it all over the surrounding surface (try to fill just the nail hole) and remove any surplus from surrounding area (may need to lightly sand with fine sandpaper after doing so to remove film of it around repaired holes). Allow this to dry/cure (again refer to information provided by the manufacturer).

You may then proceed as per the "recommendations/guidelines" of the decorative surfacing option you select.

Since neither of the two materials/products you are considering actually react with the concrete in the manner acid stain does, instead being more topical, they will be more prone to delaminate in the event of rising moisture and not have as long a wear resistance as acid stains. The coating (paint) option would not require a sealer but your the non-acid stain would; therefore, will need to apply sealer, followed by hard shell/buffed wax.

Lindy A.

If your business is acid

If your business is acid staining, I'd recommend taking a close look at these polymer stains. They open up a new world of decorative concrete coloration techiniques.

Because they are applied like paint, many faux painting techiniques can be used on floors with these products. Faux painters have already discovered acid stains for floors and now I think we will see a lot of talented faux painters applying their faux painting skills on floors.

If you want to stay on the cutting edge I'd suggest taking a look at some contemporary faux painting books and I think you'll see the possibilities.