Hot tire pickup on microtopping remedy
I did a microtopping about a month and a half ago because the customer wanted an acid stained garage. I grinded the floor to give the necessary profile and installed a microtopping and sealed with a solvent based urethane that I have used in a lot of commercial apps that worked beatifully with no popouts. I got a call today that the there are a couple of popouts from the tires and I am going to see in morning. My question is what have you guys done when getting this issue? I am considering buying some tiremats or something like that where she parks her car. Has anyone doen anything like that? I will get real sick of going over 3 times a year to fix popouts. I appreciate any experiences/advice on this and thanks in advance. My supplier said that some of the newer tires have issues with heat and sitting on a flat surface and when left to sit and cool they tend to stick due to not having any texture or relief on flooring substrate.
That is a possibility of foreign matter still being in areas where her tires are but I ground the entire floor and degreased and cleaned anything that looked suspicious. I guess I need to look into methods of stripping this sealer but the floor is scored so there is a chance that if I can find a high heat sealer that is a high gloss that matches my sealer's look then I can just strip a few 3'x3' squares that would ever have a chance of being affected by tires. This would save me having to strip entire floor.
What methods of stripping would be suitable on a solvent based urethane and still saving the microtpping(no grinding) and stain work? Any strippers come to mind?
Also if I can source a higher heat sealer, is there any chanceof profiling the urethane that I have installed to be able to roll a couple of coats of a higher heat sealer in the parking areas?
You could strip the sealer in problematic areas. Since I don't know the type of urethane/formulation you used, I recommend that you contact the manufacturer to find out best ways/means to strip it). If you profiled the urethane, you would need to abrade it (just as you would if it had been over 48 hours of applying initial coat/costs; that is if it was a aliphatic moisture cured formulation; I don't know what the one you used was).
After stripping, or abrading to create profile, you could apply a high heat resistant Polyaspartic Aliphatic Polyure (PAP); will withstnad 350F continuous, up to 400F random ... furthermore, it has the maximum degree of wear/abrasion resistance (will not be subject to hot tilre peal up), as well other high performance physical properties. If you need source, assistance in figuring amount required along with shipping charge, tech data/specification & application guidelines, etc. either give me a call 254-212-5536 (this is my DCF direct line) or drop me an email message: Lindy.Ausburne@gmail.com The PAP is packaged in 2 gallon kits, 2 quart kits, and also for very small projects or test/evaluation/sample purposes in pint kit. Clears (high gloss or satin) will maintain their clarity in the full UV rays of the sun or constant wet/damp conditions; while the pigmented ones are colorfast for interior or exterior use.
Lindy A
I am very much agree with lindy that automatic bond is the micro-topping to the concrete, instead of the sealer into the. If there had not been a micro topping with the sealer you used piercing locking down directly into the concrete substrate itself .
Tires get very hot in the summer; beyond the heat resistance of a majority of sealers and/or certain types of coatings systems: futheremore, certain types of tires are more prone to bringing about this issue than other
When you applied your sealer it wet out/penetrated/mechanically bonded (locking itself) into the thin mil microtopping. Over time, the hot tires have resulted in hot tire peal up (if the sealer you used was not a formuation that a sufficient dgree of heat resistance) that is taking the thin micro-topping up along with the sealer (in other words, the bonding of the sealer into the micro-topping is stronger than the bond of the microtopping to the concrete concrete substrate; the micro-topping having a lesser degree of physical bonding properties to the concrete as compared to that of the sealer into the micro-toppings ... something has to give, therefore the one with the least degree of mechanical bond is the micro-topping to the concrete, instead of the sealer into the microtopping (ergo: the problematic issue that will in all probability be an ongoing repair/maintenance concern). If there had not been a micro-topping, with the sealer you used penetrating/locking down directly into the concrete substrate itself this problem may or may not have occured (again, going back to the heat resistant properties of the sealer; possibly compounded by the type of rubber tire).
What is the degree of heat resistant properties of the sealer you applied. If the heat resistance is low; less than 150-200F than it could stripped and resealed with a high heat resistant sealer (such as a PAP sealer, capable of survial and maximum bonding in 350F to 400F range) ... if the sealer applied can withstand the heat of the tires than the chain reaction, taking the micro-topping with it, may not have occured (if sealer is sticking to tto tires due to heat, it can't pull the sealer and micro-topping with it).
On another hand, how did you profile the concrete substrate prior to micor-topping placement... could it be that there were spots where there was foreign matter (some sort of barrier that may have been carried in on the tires over the years, invisiblly leaching into the substrate ), or perhaps the physical properties of the concrete substrate being weeker/compromised in some way ...thereby, bringing about pop-outs in effected areas (perhaps having nothing to do with the heat from the tires or the type of tire rubber on the vehicles).
Lindy A.