Heat Resistant Sealer

6 replies [Last post]

Hello everyone, I'm a Firefighter/Medic in Chesapeake, VA and am working on a project in our fire station. I used to do concrete and still do an occasional patio, and even countertop through references from friends and past customers.

Currently I'm working on building a table for our kitchen in the firehouse. The framework is all made out of steel welded together by a co-worker, I'm doing the top out of concrete. My question is about protecting the concrete from heat from hot pans set on it. Our department works on three rotating shifts, while I'm confident the guys I work with wouldn't put hot items on the table if they were told to I can't say what happens on the other two shifts. Is there a sealer out there that is heat resistant?

We were also thinking of putting some decals on the table and covering them in sealer as well. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Lindy A.'s picture
Lindy A.
The highest degree of heat

The highest degree of heat resistance, as well as ability to remain clear (not leave rings from iced drink glasses, hot cups of coffee, wet towels that someone might leave on the table), would be Polyaspartic Aliphatic Polyurea (PAP).  PAP can withstand 300F ... typical 100% solids Industrial Epoxies, depending on formulation 115-135F ... low solids/acrylic sealers are not worth discussing/consideration in reference to heat resistance.  PAP also has the highest degree of foreign matter stain resistance (organic and inorganic matter; as well as oil, grease, vinegars, marinades, ketchup, mustard, grape jelly, drinks like big red, citrus juice concentrates and fruits themselves, various solvents, etc/etc   They also are vastly superior in wear/abrasion resistance as compared to 100% solids Industrial Epoxy (being 4 x 5 times greater). Coverage is about 225-250 sq.ft per gallon 1st coat ... 350-400 sq.ft. per gallon 2nd coat ... 1 hour dry time 1st and 2nd coat; return to service 3-4 hours after 2nd coat is dry.  Will maintain high gloss/reflective image, without sacrifical coats of wax (be it a commercial/industrial floor or countertop).   Note: the previous was in reference to Flexmar Coatings PAP's (you can click on their Banner Ad or Suppliers map to gain access to Flexmar website) ...these PAP's are VOC free, ship as non hazardous material (2 quart or 2 gallon kits), and meet the sanitary surfacing criteria of the USDA & FDA)

You didn't mention how you planned on coloring your countertop (integrally, acid based stain, acetone cut dye/stain (do not apply PAP over typical acrylic water based concrete dyes), or leaving it natural concrete ... however, another options would be ...

(1) apply 1 coat of Flexmar Variegate PAP stain (mottled/variegate/vibrant stain like appearance) over countertop; dry time 1 hours ...then apply 1 coat of Flexmar clear PAP (high gloss or satin) PAP; 1 hour dry time, return to service 3-4 hours after last coat dries.

(2) if a more translucent, less vibrant color is desired ... either mix the clear PAP with one of the pigmented colors (there are 24 of them) to achieve a tranlucent uniform dye like color; 1 hour dry time, then apply 2nd coat of clear PAP ... or, mix the clear PAP with the Variegate PAP stain for a mottled but less vibrant surface; 1 hour dry time, then apply 2nd coat of clear PA. 

If you would like further information (tech data/specs/application guidelines, material costs, etc.) feel free to drop me a message for my prompt response or visit Flexmar website.

GandCFloor's picture
how about staining the

how about staining the concrete then grinding and polishing as well as grouting then sealing just like a polished floor?? 

Thank you for the reply.  The

Thank you for the reply.  The concrete will either be integrally colored or a natural color, unsure which just yet.  The PAP sealers are a penetrating sealer correct?  How would that work with trying to put some decals on to the concrete?  We have some pretty cool designs that we are wanting to put on the concrete and I was hoping to protect them under the sealer, is that at all possible?


If that's not possible maybe I could have the decals made in the reverse, if that makes any sense.  They would basically be a stencil that I would stick down then use some kind of either colored epoxy or acid gel stain to color in the particular areas, then seal the entire thing.

Lindy A.'s picture
Lindy A.
PAP will bond to

PAP will bond to smooth/non-porous surfaces of various types (such as ceramic tile, VCT, metal, etc); whether they would bond to your decal or not would depend on what the decal was made of.

If it is porous surface; having a profile, they will wet out/penetrate/lock into the substrate (having about 2-3 mil build on surface after penetration, with the 2nd coat being the finish coat (approximately 6-7 mils) ,  

Here are 2 options in reference to decals...

(1) color you countertop,  apply you decal, apply 1 coat of 100% solids/UV over the decals, then 2 coats of clear PAP over the Epoxy; PAP's have tenatious bond to these types of Epoxy, with Epoxy being compatible with various types of decals (this being if the decal is not compatible with PAP, if decal is compatible with PAP you could use only PAP for sealing over decal).

(2) instead of tradional decals, as I assume you are referring to, you could have Agio Imaging  do the same artwork as your decal on one of their high pixel images (being their Floorpix, speciifically for incorporating images in floors, countertops, or other surfaces). Color your countertop integrally, using a reactive acid stain, Ameripolish stain/dye, or Flexmar Variegate PAP).   Next, follow Agio FloorPix Image application process ... 1 coat of 100% solids/UV resistant clear Industrial Epoxy (or PAP), apply the FloorPix image into 1 coat of Epoxy that you applied over the countertop, when Epoxy is dry/cured apply 2 coats of clear PAP "or" over the FloorPix image. 

Heat resistant sealer

Stonelok E3 2K is what I use on my counter tops it has been tested by the manufacturer to about 400deg. As far as decals in the table why dont you"seed" in the decals? If you cast right side up finish just like a normal slab and then set in place the decals and carefully float or mag in the cream around the decals. I would love to see the pics if you have any questions visit my web site and contact me.

Vitcas Heat Resistant Sealant

Vitcas Heat Resistant Sealant is a ready mixed high temperature sealing and caulking paste for use in fixing and jointing as well as for fire protection will withstand up to 1250oC. For sealing or fixing ceramics, glass, metal and other silica based materials. It has good adhesion and gap filing properties to seal or joint these materials.