Going over tile and linoleum
Can anyone recommend the right product for a finished concrete floor over tile and linoelum. Customer does not want to demo.
Thanks
A couple of years ago I did two bath / showers in a rehab / care facility where they had existing ceramic tile installed and wanted to coat it with a quartz epoxy coating. The rooms were located in the middle of the residential area with the only access was thru the public areas. They wanted to avoid a big demo project and the floors were sloped and uneven so grinding or shot blasting were impractical.
I remembered my wife using some etching cream on glass bottles for an arts project, so I got a little bottle of the stuff and tried it on some glazed tiles.
It definitely stripped the glazing off and left a slightly rough profile. While the profile wasn’t as rough as is generally recommended for epoxy bonding, the test samples showed excellent adhesion.
I did the project and haven’t had any problems.
The product is called XIM. The clean up was a pain in the ass, similar to cleaning up after SoyGel. We double washed and rinsed the floor with TSP afterwards before applying the epoxy.
I’ve also played around with Weld-Crete over etched tile and then coating it with Cement All. The samples are well bonded but I haven’t tried a real life installation yet.
I think most of us have successfully (using differing means) gone over tile; be it with epoxy systems or polymer modified overlayments, so long as has been profiled and has a strong bond to the sub floor beneath the tile ... however, when it comes to linoleum I would take it up (just my opinion). I have successfully gone over VCT (that has been sanded/profiled and stripped of all floor wax), but VCT is a different type of composite than linoleum.
Lindy A.
Great answers everyone thanks. I'd bet the lino has asbestos underneath, so another reason not to demo it. That's the problem with these small jobs; the work it takes to do it right is always out of the price range of the homeowners.
There could be ANYTHING lurking, unseen, under the linoleum (mold, some type of old asbestos flooring tiles, concrete that had bad finish work when placed, maybe the previous life of the concrete before linoleum was a decorative concrete surface that was an ugly failure spurring someone to cover it up with cheap linoleum) ... just as the case is when it comes to carpet needing x-ray vision to see the condition of a substrate beneath it. Over the past 30 years I have had enough problems kick me in the butt, making me leary of the unknown.
Lindy A.
Can a micro topping be applied directly over vct mastic after proper cleaning? Or even sanding with 36 grit? Looking at a 'fast track' job in a truckstop. I've seen different primers but was wondering if that step can be skipped.
Thank you!
Brad
PAPs (polyaspartic aliphatic polyurea) can be applied directly over VCT (it has a proven performance history) ... (1) clean, machine sand it with 40 grit, (2) remove all dust, (3) apply 1 coat of any one of 24 factory colors of PAP to create a uniform/solid colored surface hiding the pattern of VCT, dry time will be about 1 hour; (4) apply 1 coat of Variegate PAP stain/sealer; has the appearance of natural stone & acid stain; dry time will be about 1 hour; (5) apply 1 coat of clear PAP; dry time will be about 1 hour ... return to service SAME dry/cure time. PAP's have the maximum degree of wear/abrasion resistance (3-4 times higher than 100% solids industrial flooring epoxies), never require floor waxes to maintain their reflective shine (will remain clear on exterior surfaces in full UV rays of the sun; as well as being colorfast under the same conditions). If they need a "fast track" application; having a great many unsurpassed physcial properties enabling it rise to the top as the ultimate "survivor' than this type of surface warrents consideration. I have spent the past 30+ years specializing in the concrete resurfacing & high performance industrial/commercial coatings industry; so I am speaking from a strong foundation in these areas. If you would like tech data/specifications, brochures, testing and comparison documents (PAP versus/compared to 100% solids industrial/commercial epoxy & aliphatic urethane), need assistance in figuring materials required (material estimate & freight quote) based on actual sq.ft. of any proposed project, or have any other questions/concerns regarding PAPs (over concrete, VCT, various cementatious resurfacing sytems/overlayments, etc) either give me a call or drop me an email message ... I'll personally see that you promptly get all the information you need to put you on the pathway toward successful PAP applications that will pass the toughest tests of all "TIME, public use, vehicle traffic, harsh forces of Mother Nature and challenging enviroments, etc.)
If you are going to apply a micro-topping, you will need to use a primer ... I recommend a 100% solids (VOC free) Epoxy be rolled over it, broadcasting fine sand into it as you go to create a profile; then apply the micro-topping ... have done this for more years than I can remember; I wouldn't go directly over VCT with a micro-topping with using a primer (such as epoxy) first.
Lindy
Lindy, thank you for your prompt advice! I lurk and learn quite a bit here so... thank you. For an individual as busy as you must be to take the time to answer and advise is fantastic! As it happens I had a 5pm walk thru at a residential property just last night with the same situation. Black mastic on a bsmt floor in a house built in '59. This info will be helpful in this proposal as well.
The truckstop job will need to be done in phases due to the hours of the place...24/7. Restaurant, banquet hall, convenience store, massage room and checkout stations. At this time I do not know the logistics of the job (ie: how much will I be turned loose on at a time) but with the quick cure times this process looks like the ticket.
I am very interested in getting the info you'd mentioned in your reply. I will be in contact via email very soon. In the meantime I will look into the Variegate products/systems.
Again, thank you!
I'm alway ready to shine as much light as possible on a subject; based on my personal knowledge and experience ... it is sort of my way of giving back to an industry that has been so good to me for over 30 years. You will find me readily available as to answering your questions/concerns, as well as logistics and methods of undertaking a project such as you described in phases. Material quote/estimates (along with freight rate to your location), all technical data/specificaitons, literature/brochures, etc. will be promptly provided upon request. Call me anytime ... day, night, weekend, it makes no difference to me; after all, none of us march to the 9:00-5:00 M-F tune, instead we live in an opposite world of working hours in many cases 
Lindy A.
Tile could be ground (using a floor machine) to break through the glaze ... linoleum can be stripped of all wax then sanded with 40 grit. Both surfaces would then need to be cleaned/scrubbed (eliminating all dust), and allow to dry completely. After doing so, roll a coat of 100% solids epoxy, broadcasting some fine sand to create a profile over both the tile and linoleum (this will take 8-12 hours to dry/cure), then apply 1/4" polymer modified overlayment. Personally, I would at least remove the linoleum and property prep the concrete substrate under it before applying the overlayment ...as for the tile, you could leave it (grinding to profile, clean, allow to dry, apply the epoxy with sand; but, ONLY if ALL the tile you are going over has a strong bond and good overall integrity).
All the above (in relation to linoleum or tile) would probably take longer and create as much, or more of a mess, along with delays waiting for epoxy to cure/dry then just removing the linoleum and tile (as I would do).
Lindy A.